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ARRH86

Won't Fire in Semi-automatic Mode

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Hello all my baby needs help again.

I fired my AR15 for the first time today and all seemed to go well. It has a stainless steel barrel so I was firing single shots and then doing quick cleaning jobs after each shot to try to break it in. After about 10 of those I load a magazine with 5 shots and fire one.

When I try to fire the second one the trigger won't move. So I take mag out, eject the round, and try again. I pull the bolt back and it chambers a round and I fire it, and when I try to fire the second shot it won't go again, the trigger won't move.

I open it up and I can't release the trigger. I put the safety to on, and the hammer moves forward slightly, then I put it to fire again and pull the trigger, and I catch the hammer with my hand.

I repeat the test and the same thing happens, after the first shot the hammer locks back too far, and the safety releases it, and then I can fire again.

So, after each shot is fired the hammer is actually pushed back way too far, if you know what I mean. It actually happened once when I put the gun together as well, you can push the hammer farther back than is required to lock it back.

I don't quite know what to do here.

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks, Tom

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Sounds like it's getting caught on the disconnector (?) or something that won't let the hammer go. Not sure what it could be though.

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Have you ever dissassembled the trigger assembly? If it were put together incorrectly, the hammer could malfunction.

If I were you, try the trigger test.

1. put safety on

2. Squeeze trigger, nothing should happen

3. Put weapon on fire, squeeze trigger, weapon should fire. charge bolt back again.

3. squeeze trigger again but this time hold the trigger back and recharge weapon.

4. release trigger and the hammer should fall onto the next notch.

5. Squeeze trigger and it should fire.

If any of those tests fail, take it to a gunsmith.

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If any of those tests fail, take it to a gunsmith.

126831[/snapback]

You seem to be having too much trouble with your AR. How about you send it to me and I'll take care of it for you :smile:

Don't tell Em I posted this

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you beat me to it fair and squair (but do it again)

if you know how, you might try removing the triger and reinstalling it.

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I am making the assumption that if you hold the trigger back and press the hammer down by hand then let go of the trigger the disconnector does not release from the hammer. If this is the case then you might pull the hammer and disconnector out and while alligning them in the position they would be in inside the received look for burrs that are hanging the two up. I am also making the assumption that the trigger and hammer springs are intalled correctly. If all the parts are intalled correctly then I would expect a burr on the disconnector, hammer or both. This could be carefully removed with a stone or file. If you do any stoning or filing on either piece make sure you check for proper function before firing a live round. You wouldn't want accidental slam fires:)

Chris

BTW, is it possible to get a pic of inside the lower receiver? This may help as well.

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the disconnector is impeding the hammer. a little fitting and break-in and it'll be fine

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Ok to reproduce the effect manually I have to pull in on the trigger, and then pull back the hammer at the same time.

This allows the hammer to rest on a middle catch portion of the hammer, with a different portion of the hammer than what normally catches.

Normally the hammer is caught down on the far bottom of itself by a bottom piece of the disconnector.

I don't know why this would happen while firing, I don't hold the trigger in after each shot or anything.

Now, what are those little catches for on the hammer and disconnector?

I am assuming it is shaped that way for a reason.

Is it safe to file one of these pieces down so the hammer can only get caught on the bottom portion?

I mean, this isn't a burr it is part of the piece.

Thanks.

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I would have to see a pic of this catch you are referring to.

You do hold the trigger back after firing the gun you just don't realize it. The bolt comes back and cocks the hammer faster than you could take your finger off the trigger. While your finger is on the trigger the disconnector hooks the hammer in that mid part you are referring to. This is how it is supposed to work. However, when you release the trigger the disconnector is supposed to release the hammer and the hammer is caught by the front of the trigger. If your disconnector is not releasing the hammer then you should get a new disconnector and new hammer. This should take care of the problem. I am hesitant to suggest that you file on the disconnector or hammer just to be safe. However, you could try it and just check for proper function manually. Although the hammer and disconnector are not expensive.

Chris

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Sorry I didn't post back just been kinda busy. I'm back at school now so I don't have access to it for a while, it may be spring break or possibly summer before I can mess with it and look at it again.

I haven't tried anything new since I posted before.

I don't think the primers were the cause, although I seem to remember there being little indentations on the primers on the ones that didn't fire.

I will try to make a drawing or something to show you where it is catching when it messes up. I'm really in no hurry now though with it so it might be a while till I can figure out how to do the drawing or image and post it here.

Then I will either fix it somehow or buy a new disconnector and hammer.

Thanks.

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Alright I'm back and I'm in the mood to fix it.

I decided to simply order a whole new lower reciever parts kit.... Its only roughly 60 dollars plus then if anything else happens I should have what I need to fix it.

My question is, which brand should I go with?

Rock river arms kit costs 60 dollars. Without shipping.

Bushmaster costs 75 dollars with shipping.

DPMS kit costs 59 dollars, without shipping.

Which of these should I go with, or do you have anything else to recommend? And yes I realize Bushmaster might not make their own parts, I'm not sure. But I would like to order whatever will work, aka whatever you guys have had good experience with.

Thanks,

Tom

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I would spend a little more and put a jeweled trigger in there and call it done. If I was to go with factory parts I would probably try to use them from the same manufacturer as the rifle, however that is not required. I don't see why you would have problems with the DPMS or Rock River parts and they are a little cheaper than Bushy.

I would like to thank PACMAN for his quality help in this matter, I think he's on to something and you would do well to work with him to resolve this problem. You probably don't need any new parts. Just a little fitting and breakin as previously stated.

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Yes I thank pacman as well, and everyone else.

I built the rifle from Model1 Parts, so I'm not sure the make of anything except the lower reciever, which is from Ameetec Arms of Arizona.

Thanks,

Tom

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Yes I thank pacman as well, and everyone else.

I built the rifle from Model1 Parts, so I'm not sure the make of anything except the lower reciever, which is from Ameetec Arms of Arizona.

Thanks,

Tom

153747[/snapback]

Not a problem. I hate to see something not working right.

If you don't mind spending the money buying a new parts set then go for it. I have had very good luck with DPMS parts. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.

Were you ever able to take some pics of the inside of your lower receiver to see the fitting of the internal parts?

Chris

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Alright I will go with the DPMS parts kit, I wouldn't mind having the extra springs around and stuff just in case anything happens.

And no I am sorry, I didn't manage to get the pictures taken. My family does have a digital camera around somewhere, but we've got a lot of computer junk so we have no clue where it is anymore.

I will order the parts kit in the next day or two and let you know what happens hopefully in a week or so.

Thanks ,

Tom

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