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Jochen Heiden

Yugo M59/66 Sks Firing Pin Help!

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I have a Yugo M59/66 SKS. For the life of me, I can't seem to get the firing pin out of it. It's real cosmoey in there and I want to remove it, but the pin doesn't seem to want to move. Any suggestions?

My bolt doesn't seem to be like the pictures of others I've seen, which were mostly Russian.

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Thed, would likely know, but he's off campin, probably shootin at wild pigs and such. J> Is it corroded in, or stuck, Is it new, Any one fired it before?

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It's definitely been fired before. It could also be cosmoline holding it back.

However, there is no real exit for the retaining pin to go out of. It *looks* like the opposite end of it is attached to a little piece flush against the extractor.

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I've never had a yugo, but I have my old chinese bolt out. and I see your delema. I've never removed it before. I posted a site 2nd topic down for referance sites called the frugal squirrel. Link at bottom of the topic. Im pretty sure you can find directions to remove this retaining pin.

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HA, found something.

Disassemble the bolt by driving out the pin that runs through the bolt, holding the extractor and fireing pin in place. remove fireing pin and extractor and extractor spring. ( DO NOT instal fireing pin upside down since it can get stuck in a protruding position)

I bet thats what hapened. its upside down. Drive out that pin and get out the vicegrips. Good luck.

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The problem is, it is impossible for me to drive that pin out that goes through the bolt.

Also, I'm unable to get my trigger assembly to lock back in place. I tried for two hours tonight to shove it back it, but it would not lock. F_

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Is the fireing pin stuck in the so called protruded position?

Must be jamed in good. bet someone got the pin in backwards then hamered the retaining pin in and were baffeled and sold it.

The trigger assembly can be a bitch to get in at times. Be sure to get the front of asembly hooked into the action right and smack the trigger gard with the palm of your hand hard to lock it in. They lock in kinda hard.

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STOP At this point of working on the bolt you can damage components that can be a pain in the butt to find replace. Look at Sarco Inc. or TAPCO and the SKS bolt parts are the most expensive replacement parts because of frequent damage.

I just had to fix a firing pin on a Norinco SKS yesterday. It "popped" the cross pin and would not work.

To disassemble the bolt, and get access to the Firing pin on the Chinese models you must have the following:

A small brass hammer

1/8" drift punch

1 can of $0.77 carborator cleaner (spray with red hose/straw)

1 can of teflon based WD40/ Liquid Wrench/ or RemOil (w/teflon)

A table with light so if you loose itty-bitty parts they wont roll anywhere. I use an old towel.

Do this Maintence Every 1-2000 rounds

Remove the Bolt and Bolt Carrier from the rifle.

Wipe off bolt and sparay with Carborator cleaner. Wipe all excess solvent off.

NOTE: I will have digital photos soon to explain this better.

Look at the extractor Arm. Where this piece connects with the bolt is a flat "square like" shape approximatelt 1/4"x 3/16". One corner of this piece should have a curved radius corner.

Flip the bolt, on the other side you should see a round hole with a pin in it. This is the area where you punch out the pin. It is connected to that square like side. Use your drift punch and tap out this pin. If you have trouble, apply some liquid wrench or like lubricant to help free it.

Hammer out the pin and the Firing pin will come out. Also you will see the spring that actuateds the extractor.

NOTE: On former East Bloc Rifles (Soviet, Albanian, Romanian, etc.) these were chrome lined to compensate for the use of corrosive ammo. If you have a surplus rifel in this category, chance are Corrosive ammo has been shot from it. The bolt assembly is also subject to the corrosive salts of this ammo use. The is a good chance that the "guts" of the bolt have never been cleaned or have corrosive salts still on them. Many Eastern Europe SKS have bolt troubles because of this issue. This is why I suggest disassembly, inspection, and cleaning.

Inspect all parts and FLUSH the parts with the carborator cleaner. You will notice a bunch of "gunk" coming out. Look at the inside of the extractor and the spring. These sometimes are starting to rust. Clean these well. If you you are worried about corrosive salts, give these parts a 10minute Bath/dip in Ammonia (this is over kkill) or in Windex. Take out and clean this off.

I like to use pipe cleaners to "swab" out the nooks and crannies.

The firing pin has two sides. These are designed for the use on different varieties of primer. One side allows for more extension of the firing pin when used. Do Not confuse this with the hammer side and the primer side. If you put the hammer side of the pin in the bolt you will notice it may not go through. I feel sorry for the guy who wedges it in this way. "Skinny point goes in bolt first!"

After cleaning all these parts I like to coat them all in a Teflon Based Lubricant and let them bake on in the Texas Sun. If you don't have that, try by a heater or in a window sill for a period of time. This makes a nice slick layer that helps slow down future corrosion and helps reduce friction. The Extractor Spring I clean and coat with Grease to prevent Future Rust. This little spring Is a Pain in the Butt to replace.

I have had one rust away to nothing. This is the reason I know this stuff. People who experience ejection problems may want to do this inspection also.

Reassemble the bolt. The Firing pint should slide easily back and forth with your fingers. Don not put it back together unless in does this. Like I said earlier, I get pipe cleanears to clear all the stuff out of the firing pin hole first. Then lube it.

I am cleaning my SKS today, and It is actually a good time for me to take photos for you, to explain better. The problem is the battery has worn down, and I cant find my AC adapter....Ugh. I will post these as soon as I can.

I believe the Chinese and Former Soviet Bolt designes are similar and should use the same principals. If I am wrong I apologize. It should be nearly the same though.

Hope this Helps,

-Thed ok>

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Please, do let me see the pictures.

I believe my Yugo bolt is a lot different from most othes. I just can't get the retaining pin out.

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Until I get the photos up, keep you entire bolt soaked or submerged in liquid wrench or other penetrant/lubricant. The "PB" brand is also good. Avoid forcing or using a puch and hammer until the penetrant has soaked it. This could take 24 hours. If it is corrosion that is causing the seizure, this will help.

If you can, post a photo of your bolt. I will be able to help you with the Chinese/Norinco model. If your bolt is designed different than it may not totally help. The corrosion principals I have already explained will however be pretty accurate.

-Thed

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